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If you are familiar with Chinese traditional clothing, you must be familiar with the two terms Cheongsam and Qipao. There have always been two common views on their relationship. Some people say both refer to the well known Chinese style long dress for women. Others say they are two different kinds of clothing.
In fact, neither of these two views is wrong. The main difference between them only lies in the context and perspective from which we view them. Today, we will explain the two terms Cheongsam and Qipao clearly from three dimensions: etymology, history and modern usage, so that you can fully understand their differences.
The Origin and Complete Development History of Cheongsam and Qipao
Qipao
Qipao is the Hanyu Pinyin transliteration of the Chinese term 旗袍 in Mandarin, the official language of China. It is the standard official term for Chinese people all over the world.
The literal meaning of the name is the robe worn by Manchu people. The Manchu people here refer to the ethnic group that ruled China during the Qing Dynasty from 1644 to 1912. The original prototype of Qipao was a loose and straight robe worn by Manchu women in the Qing Dynasty, which did not deliberately highlight body curves.
The modern slim fit Qipao we know well today took shape around 1921 and reached its peak in Shanghai, China from the 1920s to the 1940s. This improved dress broke the concealment of women’s figures by traditional Chinese clothing, and highlighted body lines with a waist fitted cut. It became a symbolic garment for Chinese women to pursue independence and embrace modernization at that time, and was also widely recognized as the national dress for Chinese women at that time.
After 1949, this kind of clothing once faded out of the mainstream vision. It revived globally again from the 1970s to the 1980s, and is now an officially recognized traditional formal dress for women in China.
Cheongsam
Cheongsam is the phonetic transliteration of the Chinese term 长衫 in Cantonese. It is the first term for Chinese women’s long dresses that became well known in the Western world.
The literal meaning of the name is long clothing. Different from Qipao, this term appeared as early as the Qing Dynasty from 1644 to 1912. Initially, it referred to traditional Chinese long robes worn by both men and women in southern China, especially in Guangdong, the core Cantonese speaking area, and was not an exclusive clothing for women.
During the Republic of China period from 1912 to 1949, as the slim fit Chinese women’s long dress became popular all over China, Cantonese speaking areas began to use Cheongsam to refer to this improved women’s clothing, and it subsequently became the mainstream term in Hong Kong, China.
From the 1950s to the 1960s, Cheongsam spread to European and American countries along with Hong Kong films, becoming the most recognized term for Chinese women’s long dresses first contacted by Western people, and this usage has continued to this day.
Clear Guide for Daily Use
In fact, you do not need to overthink the correctness of these two terms. You only need to follow two simple rules to use them naturally in all scenarios:
In general scenarios such as daily communication, clothing shopping and ordinary social interactions, the two terms can be used at will, and people all over the world can understand them accurately.
Use Qipao first in mainland China and Taiwan, China. Cheongsam will be easier for people to understand when facing people in Hong Kong, China, Southeast Asia, and English speaking countries in Europe and America.
Comparison Table of Cheongsam and Qipao
| Comparison Items | Qipao | Cheongsam |
|---|---|---|
| Source of Appellation | Hanyu Pinyin transliteration of 旗袍 in Mandarin | Phonetic transliteration of 长衫 in Cantonese |
| Etymology and Literal Meaning | Originated from Manchu robes in the Qing Dynasty, literally meaning the robe worn by Manchu people | Originated from traditional Chinese long robes, literally meaning long clothing |
| Key Historical Timeline | The modern style took shape around 1921, peaked in Shanghai from the 1920s to the 1940s, and gradually revived after the 1970s to 1980s | The general term existed in the Qing Dynasty, became the mainstream term for women’s clothing in Hong Kong in the first half of the 20th century, and spread to Europe and America through Hong Kong films in the 1950s to 1960s |
| Main Usage Regions | Commonly used in mainland China, Taiwan, China and most Chinese communities around the world | More widely used in Hong Kong, China, Guangdong, Southeast Asia and overseas English speaking environments |
| Core Design Features | Centered on a close fitting cut, standard with high standing collar, right slanted placket, hand made frog buttons and side slits, balancing Oriental charm and feminine lines | Early styles were simple and neutral. After improvement, the core design is basically the same as Qipao. There is no essential difference in styles in modern context, only different appellations |
| Cultural Symbol Attribute | Officially recognized traditional women’s formal dress in China, a core symbol of women’s independence, modernization and national cultural confidence | Carrying Hong Kong’s local cultural characteristics, it is a classic pronoun of Chinese traditional clothing and Oriental women’s charm in the Western context |
Cheongsam / Qipao FAQs
Q: Are Cheongsam and Qipao the same garment?
A: Yes, they refer to the exact same garment.
Qipao is the Mandarin term you will see in most modern searches and contexts within mainland China.
The term Cheongsam is widely used in Hong Kong, overseas contexts, as well as on fashion and museum labels.
Q: Can Cheongsam and Qipao be used interchangeably in daily use?
A: Absolutely. In most common scenarios including daily communication, clothing shopping, and casual social interactions, the two terms can be used interchangeably with no restrictions. They are clearly understood by people around the world, with no absolute right or wrong usage or related taboos.
Q: Was Cheongsam originally a unisex garment for both men and women?
A: Yes, it was. Cheongsam is the phonetic transliteration of the Cantonese term for “long shirt”. This term emerged as early as the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), and originally referred to traditional Chinese long robes worn by both men and women in southern China. It was not exclusive to women, and only gradually became a term specific to women’s Chinese style robes during the Republic of China period (1912-1949).
Q: What exactly does “banner people” in the etymology of Qipao refer to?
A: “Banner people” refers to the Manchu ethnic group that ruled China during the Qing Dynasty from 1644 to 1912. The Manchu people followed the Eight Banners administrative system, so they are collectively referred to as “banner people”. The original prototype of Qipao was the traditional straight cut robe worn by Manchu women in the Qing Dynasty, which is the origin of its name.
Q: Why is the term Cheongsam more commonly used than Qipao in European and American countries?
A: Because Cheongsam originates from the Cantonese speaking region. The earliest Chinese people who traveled to Europe and America in modern times mostly came from Cantonese speaking areas. It was further widely spread across Europe and America through Hong Kong films from the 1950s to the 1960s, making it the first term for Chinese women’s robes that Western audiences were exposed to. This usage habit has continued to the present day.
Q: Can people who are not of Chinese ethnicity wear Cheongsam or Qipao?
A: Of course they can. Cheongsam and Qipao are classic Oriental garments for the whole world to appreciate and wear. As long as you wear them with respect for the culture behind the clothing, people of any race or nationality can wear them freely. There are no exclusive taboos around wearing them, nor will it be regarded as cultural appropriation.
Q: What occasions are suitable for wearing Cheongsam or Qipao?
A: Cheongsam and Qipao fit an extremely wide range of occasions. Simple casual styles can be worn for everyday wear, shopping trips, and gatherings with friends, while exquisite formal styles are perfect for weddings, banquets, official ceremonies, cultural events, and all kinds of formal occasions, with very strong adaptability.